Dress Shirt

Over the past half-century, the dress shirt has gone from being an garment to holding a prominent place in many outfits. This is one reason why it is today available in so many styles, colors, and patterns. Whether one's style is chinos or suit-and-tie, shirts are an essential means of expanding one's wardrobe.

A shirt's style signals quite a bit about the wearer's intentions. A dress shirt with a button-down collar, left breast pocket, plain front, and single-button cuffs signals leisure while a dress shirt with a turned-down point collar, no breast pocket, placket front, and French cuffs signals formality. The beauty of adjusting a shirt's style is that you can design it for not only for the occasion but also to compliment your unique features.

Shirt Collars:

The men's dress shirt collar is the most important style detail, both in determining the garment's level of formality and in how it flatters the wearer's face. Button-down collars are the least formal and extremely versatile; they look great without a tie but can just as well support a tie and sweater, blazer, or sport coat combination. The wing collar, on the other hand, is reserved for formal wear and should always be worn with its companion parts. It is the least versatile collar, whose sole purpose is to signal the highest level of dress.

Most men's dress shirts sport some sort of pointed collar, but there is huge room for variety here. While the standard point collar looks good on most men, those with narrower faces do better with slightly shorter ones, while round faces carry well above long collar points. As a general rule, the greater the angle between the short sides of the collar points, the more formal the presentation. Spread collars, which leave a wide opening between them, take large tie knots especially well. The edges of the cut-away collar nearly form a straight line above the tie knot; this is the most formal collar arrangement. An exception to the parallelism of spread and formality is the tab collar: here little tabs of fabric extending from each side connect behind the tie knot, holding the collar close together and projecting the knot outward for a precise, no-nonsense look. The white contrast collar, in any style, with or without matching white French cuffs, is a favorite of power-dressers. While it certainly raises a suit-and-tie above the masses, let the wearer be warned against it if he cannot equal its eminence.

On most decent dress shirts, the collar's points are kept straight by collar stays. These 2- to 3-inch pointed splints are inserted into slots on the underside of the collar after ironing, and later removed for washing. Besides the plastic ones that come with most shirts, you can buy them in brass, silver, and even ivory, but their material has negligible effect on their function.


Shirt Cuffs:

Barrel cuffs, standard on most dress shirts, come in a variety of styles and except for the most formal of occasions are never a bad choice. The common variety has a single button; cuffs with two or even three buttons are somewhat more artful. French cuffs are de rigeur for formal wear; they look good with a suit but are always optional. A button in the sleeve placket helps the sleeve to stay closed during wear and can be opened to iron the cuffs; it is optional but nearly ubiquitous.

Shirt Pockets:

The traditional left breast pocket adds a little depth to a dress shirt, especially if worn without jacket and tie, and can be useful for holding pens, tickets, and the like. A shirt with no pockets can look slightly cleaner with a coat and tie, but since the coat covers the pocket the difference is minimal when wearing a suit. As with most things, simplicity equals formality, so the pocket-less shirt is the dressiest.

Shirt Front & The Placket:

The standard placket is a strip of fabric raised off the men's dress shirt front with stitches down each side; this is what most casual shirts and many dress shirts have. In the more modern French placket, the edge of the shirt front is folded over, creased, and held together only by the button holes. This cleaner front sharpens more formal dress shirts; it should not, however, be combined with a button-down collar. There are also hidden button plackets, and as the name suggests hide the front buttons under a sheath of fabric.

Shirt Back:

Men's backs are not flat; thus we use pleats on the back panel of a shirt so that the fabric may hang from the yoke (the piece covering the shoulder blades) and better conform to the body. There are two common varieties of pleated shirt back styles: the box pleat consists of two pleats spaced one-and-a-half inches apart at the center, while side pleats lie halfway between each edge and the center of the back. While the former are more common on ready-to-wear shirts, the latter better align with the actual shape of the back, and thus fit most men better. A well-made custom shirt can be cut and sewn to fit its wearer perfectly without pleats, and this makes it cleaner and easier to iron. Nonetheless, many men prefer to have pleats even on their bespoke dress shirts.

Monograms:

A man may elect to have his shirt monogrammed, usually on the edge of the breast pocket or on the shirt's cuff. Monogramming originated as a way to identify one's shirts in a commercial laundry, akin to writing a child's name on the tag of their jacket. More recently, as the shirt has taken a more prominent role in men's dress, the monogram has emerged as a way to subtly communicate the care a man has taken in obtaining his clothes. While large, garish monograms certainly do more harm than good, many men enjoy the quiet display of their initials, usually in a color similar to the shirt's own.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Men Dress Shirts

The first thing a person notices about a dress shirt is its color. In a crowded room of suits, your choice of shirt colors will either help you stand out or blend in; the key here is what are your intentions and do you know how to mix and match your clothing in order to fulfill them. The only way to do this is to gain mastery in understanding 1) what color shades compliment you and 2) how those same colors frame you in your environment. The goal of this article is to help you to begin to understand both.

The Role of your Complexion, Hair, and Eye Color
A man's complexion, hair color, and eye color are the key indicators he should use when selecting the color of a fabric which will cover his body. Unfortunately, most men make their color decision based on what they have worn in the past, what colors are readily available, and the ever-changing winds of fashion. The result is what you see today, a sea of solid white and blue shirts. The two most important factors in selecting shirt color are a man's skin tone and hair color. Eye color is a wild-card factor; in the cases where eye color strongly contrasts a man's complexion and hair color, it can be used to introduce colors that would otherwise have not compliment an individual. It is the relationship between these three factors that determines what contrast category a man falls into: either High, Low, or Medium Contrast

High Contrast Men

Put simply, these are men whose hair color is a stark contrast to their skin tone; black hair with white skin is a perfect example. For high contrast men, the key to looking good is to be able to mimic this color difference in their clothing with the contrast in their facial zone. A dark navy suit with a white shirt and a charcoal suit with an ice blue shirt are two combinations that compliment high contrast men. In general, light colored shirts with dark suits and dark/vibrant ties with light colored suits. Dark shirts with light suits can be accomplished, but pulling this off requires skill. High contrast men are always complimented by strong ties that stand out from the shirt.

Low Contrast Men

As the name suggests, these are men with a muted appearance. Light hair and light skin is the most common variant, but men with red hair, bald men, and men with little hair also fall into this category. The strengths of these men are the exact opposite of the high contrast men above. Low contrast men should seek a monochromatic look, as that a strong contrasting outfit will easily overpower their muted tones. Remember the purpose of a frame (your clothing) is to enhance the picture (your face). In general, low contrast men fair well with dark blues and earth tone dress shirts combined with dark suits. When wearing light gray or tan suits, the low contrast gentlemen needs to stay with lighter colored shirts and earth tones; white is permissible here if the suit is light enough to avoid a stark contrast. Be careful in your choice of tie, if the neck-wear stands out too much it can draw attention from your face to your chest and stomach.


Medium Contrast Men

If you don't fall into one of the two extremes, you most likely fit into this group. Brown skinned men with dark hair are common members, along with lighter skinned men and with gray and white hair. With such a wide selection of facial tones and hair colors, it's hard to give specific guidance in this category. What we will say is that most men do not fit exactly in the middle; instead they lean towards either low or high contrast. The afore mentioned dark haired men with brown skin; they lean towards the high contrast, and can not only utilize that man's color combinations but they can get away with a few subtle monochromatic combinations. The same with the light skinned gentlemen with gray hair. He is more similar to the low contrast individual, and would do well to follow the rules set forth for that man. However, he can very successfully pull off a contrasting outfit, especially if his eyes or another feature compliment the color combination chosen. To sum it up, medium contrast men can enjoy the best of both worlds, but should be careful when venturing too far in one direction.

The Role of Seasons

It should be mentioned that although your natural colors are the dominant factors in determining what color clothing you should wear, they are not the only things you should pay attention to. A dandy also gives attention to the seasons, paying heed to the effect the colors around him have on the ensemble he has put together. The dark suit and dark colored shirt you decide to wear may look magnificent on you, but at a summer wedding you'll find yourself not only hot under the collar but sticking out like a sore thumb. Let's take a quick look at the seasons and the shades of color they invoke.

Spring

The season of re-birth, it's here that we pinks, lavenders, and lighter shades of blue. Lighter weight fabrics are dusted off from their winter sleep, and a man would speak well of himself to wear multi-colored checks and stripes that compliment him.

Summer

A time when light and bold colors dominate the scene. Gold striped shirts, red checks, and of course a wide variety of blue solids and patterns should grace the wardrobe of the well dressed man. 100% cottons, linens, and silks are popular fabric choices because of their wicking qualities.

Fall

Earth Tones and heavier fabrics begin to make their appearance. Clothing tends to take on a somber appearance with the onset of cooler weather, and now with the weather getting cooler is a good time to wear blends. Their heat retention qualities are good on an cold evening you are caught without an overcoat.

Winter

Dark colors and heavy fabric such as flannels make their appearance. You can enliven your wardrobe a bit with a pink or maize oxford, but winter is the season you want to get your money's worth from the fabrics designed to keep you warm. Forest green and brown tones are a stable during this season.

It's important to remember that confidence in ones appearance is vital to looking great. When people look at you a tad longer than usual, you need to have the confidence in your outfit to know that it's because you look that good (as opposed to looking that bad!). Our advice is to have the courage to know yourself, and from that knowledge choose the colors that best compliments you as an individual.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Men Dress Shirts

Shirt fabrics or "Shirtings", as they are called by those in the industry, come in a wide variety of weave types. They are made from a range of fibers, with cotton being the most common. Most fabric names refer to the particular method in which it underlying fibers were woven. We won't go into it here, but be aware that the thickness and characteristics of the cotton fiber (shape, cleanliness, length) come into play when determining the quality and function of the total product.

Oxford Fabric

Oxford cloth is the coarsest shirting; it is nonetheless quite soft and comfortable. A casual fabric, it is naturally found on the button-down collar shirt, but in the US is perfectly acceptable for most business occasions. In colored and patterned Oxford shirts only the threads running in one direction are dyed, with the other threads being left white. This gives it a basket-weave, meaning the fabric's warp and weft threads cross each other in pairs. It has a characteristic textured appearance (which lends to its casual feel). Pinpoint oxford is woven likewise but of finer yarn and is smoother and more formal. Royal Oxford is finer still and can blend seamlessly with a fine wool suit and expensive tie.

Poplin Fabric

Poplin bears a smoother texture than oxford, but similar weight. This is the result of a fine yarn running one way with a thicker one interweaving it. Poplin shirt fabric is soft and comfortable and often used in casual shirts. Colors find themselves easily at home here, and it takes sporty patterns especially well.


Twill Fabric

Cotton twill has a shimmery diagonal weave and makes for richly textured shirts that can still be considered professional wear. In herringbone twill, the direction of the diagonals switches back and forth every quarter inch, giving the fabric more depth. When the occasion calls for a out of the ordinary solid shirt, twill plays the role with panache by creating texture and an up close display of detail.

Broadcloth Fabric

Broadcloth shirt fabric is a weave is very similar to broadcloth except more densely packed, is one of the most formal shirting for day-to-day wear. End-on-end broadcloth is that made by interweaving threads of alternating colors for a visual texture so subtle it appears solid from an arm's length away. Thanks to its tight weave, this cloth displays patterns with exquisite precision.

End-on-End Fabrics

A plain one-on-one weave, this fabric traditionally uses white with another color to create a subtle check effect and texture. Occasionally, two colors are used to create a "double shot" of color. The liberal use of pattern and the eye catching weave peg this fabric as casual wear, but with the right collar and tie this fabric weave could find itself in even the most conservative banker's closet.

Formal Shirt Fabrics

Formal shirts are made of white piqué cotton, which boasts a rich, woven texture. This is the only shirt proper for black tie or white tie, and it is not appropriate for anything else. You will know this fabric by the fineness of its weave, lack of visible pattern, and smoothness of its feel.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Perfect Interview Wardrobe

Interview Wardrobe

The clothes you choose to wear to your interview will create the first-and most important-impression upon those who matter, up until your first day on the job. At that point, you can start to relax into the club’s attire. But at this point, dressing to impress is mandatory, and the clothes you choose are critical. This section discusses the interview wardrobe’s key pieces, and the messages they send.
“At one time, the most qualified person got the job. Today, in a situation where three people with equal qualification are interviewed for a job, the one with the best communication skills gets it.”

WHAT DO YOUR CLOTHES SAY TO THE INTERVIEWER?

BLOUSE
Uptight or Elegant?
PEARLS Pretentious or Pulled together?

SUIT JACKET

Suit Jacket Long ago pilfered from menswear , the jacket acts a strong, no-nonsense centerpiece to any business look. It gives the body shape, suggests stature, and imparts the wearer with confidence. Because its overall intent is to convey power, a jacket’s workmanship, quality, and tailoring are critical.

FABRIC Should drape smoothly, not appear stiff, shiny, or flimsy.
COLOR Neural-black, gray, navy’ or beige.
SHAPE Slightly nipped in at waist.
POCKETS Optional pockets lie flat and are lined. Do not remove string to open.
LENGTH Hem extends to the bottom of the hips.
SLEEVES Sleeves land at the base of the thumb.
COLLAR Collar lies smooth and flat against the neck.
SHOULDERS Shoulders are structured but not overpadded.
LAPELS Medium to small lapels<3”1/4 from seam to point is ideal> lie flat without buckling.
FIT Armholes should fit well-not too baddy, no too tight; this part of the jacket can’t be tailored.
STYLE Single-breasted.
BUTTONS Buttons are the same color or darker than the suit and never too large, flashy, or covered in fabric.


Suit Skirt

WHAT IT SAYS
Formal, urban, conservative.
FABRIC Drapes smoothly.
NO BELT LOOPS
SHAPE Simple-a-lime or straight, not too tight and never frilly.
DETAILS For maximun versatility, the waist should not require a belt.
FIT Skirt should not be too tight or too short-do a sitting text in tit before purchasing. Check the rearview mirror. What look fabulous from the front can cling or slouch from other angles.
QUALITY Make sure seams are even and not pulled. Check that lining is firmly intact.
LENGTH To the knee. It’s the length that says, “I’m professional” and looks best on most legs. Shorter could be considered too fashiony; longer, more traditional.


Suit Pants
WHAT IT SAYS
Confident, contemporary, practical.
FIT Pants should drape smoothly over the body, with no tight areas that droop. Check that the pocket lining is smooth and not bulky.
OUALITY Check that fabric hangs evenly and seams are not mismatched or pulled.
THE BOTTOM LINE The seat of the pants should be neither overly baggy nor clingy. To ensure proper fit, check your rearview mirror and sit down while wearing the pants.
ZIP CODE Side, front, or rear closure are acceptable.
BANISH BELT LOOPS
For your first suit, a clean waistline is the most flexible. Belt loops always require a belt and that your top is tucked in.
FLAT FRONT VS. PLEATS
Both are professional; the flat front is more slimming and sophisticated.
LENGTH
The pant leg should break at the instep. When having your pants hemmed, bring the shoe you will most often wear with them.
CUFFED LEG VS. CLEAN
Both are acceptable; a clean leg is more versatile.

Tops are key wardrobe enhancers: Change your top and essentially you’ve changed your look. Choose shirts and that are compatible with your suits. Make sure each top fits comfortably under your suit jacket-and looks suitably professional should you take your jacket off.
BLOUSE
A soft, somewhat loose feminine top. Conservative, confident, ladylike. FIRST PURCHASE: Solid white, cream, black, or a color to match your suit.
SHIRT
Button-front, cuffed-and-collared top inspired by menswear. Efficient, classic; respects authority. Choose a classic, men’s style dress collar; a button-down can be limiting. FIRST PURCHASE; Solid, white cotton.
T-SHIRT
Trim, collarless, cotton or jersey top. Easygoing but organized. Ready to roll up your sleeves Choose substantial, opaque cotton or cotton blend with stretch-anything flimsy will lose its shape. Make sure neck is not saggy or baggy. Keep it plain . Try a shot of color.

FIRST PURCHASE: Solid white, black, or to match the color of your suit.
1 JACKET+4 TOPS = 3 DRESS CODES
Shoes

Never underestimate the power of shoes. A good pair can make a ho-hum dress look like a million bucks. The wrong ones can send a great suit straight into the gutter. Shoes also tend to make at-a-glance statements about your workplace identity, and your message better be clear-I’m capable, confident, and yes, great with derails.

Portfolio
A portfolio is a sleek and efficient alternative to the handbag. It can help keep resumes presentable, hold a notepad, and conceal any preinterview cheat sheets you want to study en route to your meeting.


We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

How To Dress Smart For The New Workplace

Your Investment Strategy

SHOP SMART BUY LESS, BUY BETTER
This step in the wardrobe building process is important: Clothes take up real estate. And salary. The key is to buy less, better ,and buy clothes that will work together. Filling your closet with well-chosen, good quality, versatile pieces will enable you to “work” your wardrobe by mixing and remixing.
The result: Endless combinations that don’t require an endless supply of clothes.
Buy the best you can afford on your budget. You’ll go home with fewer items, but they will be of better quality. This is especially important when purchasing items worn every day-coats, shoes handbags-the better the quality, the bigger your return will be. In general:
• Clothes in season less fabrics are the best investment. They can be worn most of the year, and pack well. The best are lightweight knits.
• Don’t buy the color of the moment if it makes your face look drab or your body bulky. Wear it as an accent strategically placed.
• If a color gives you a glow, and makes you smile with approval, incorporate it into your wardrobe mix. Not only will you feel best wearing it, it will become a mark of your personal style.
• One very good quality item can upgrade almost any outfit.
• When you find a brand that suits you, in the future.

WHAT IT TAKES TO BUILD A WARDROBE• It takes time.
• It takes focus.
• It takes Patience.
• It takes work.
• It takes restraint.
• It takes self-knowledge.
• It takes a budget.
• It takes boldness.
• It takes enterprise.
• It takes commitment.

Shop Smart
The goal: To broaden your closet with wardrobe enhancers (well-chosen items that go with other clothes in your closet and expand their possibilities immeasurably). Among the enhancers of choice: A smattering of shirt and blouses (to go under jackets and spruce up skirts), sweater sets and other bright knits, and tailored separates that take the pressure off the single suit that helped you soar through your early years with flying colors .
How to Buy a Work Outfit

SHOP SMART: THE JACKET
A jacket is professional in appearance and pulls and outfit together. It is also a good way to add color, pattern, or texture to your wardrobe mix. Shop for jackets that complement your suit bottoms. This will give your wardrobe more mileage. If in doubt about mixing things up, a safe bet is to wear all black as a base.
Black = Sophisticated, urban. It’s the most versatile.
Navy = Classic but difficult to match with other shades of navy.
Gray = Serious business.
Beige = Sleek, skillful, and friendly.
Red = powerful.
Fabric:
Year round: Lightweight wool, worsted wool, and wool crepe.
Summer: Cotton blends, seersucker, featherweight wool, linen blends.
Fall and winter: Wool, wool blends, cashmere, corduroy, gabardine, tweed, suede, velvet.
Pattern: Solid, pinstripe, plaid, tweed, houndstooth.

SHOP SMART: SHIRTS
A change of shirt will change your look. Your closet should contain about at least five tops. Be sure to buy colors or patterns that complement on their own.
• Shirt sleeves should hit the base of the thumb, and extend about a half an inch beyond the sleeve of the jacket.
• There should be enough room in sleeves so you can move your arms comfortably, but not too much that sleeves get bunched up when worn with suit jacket.
• When buttoned up, you should be able to breathe comfortably and there should be no hint of your undergarments or nipples.
• Straight hem: Can be worn untucked in casual environment.
• Fitted: Crisp and clean, feminine style.

• Rounded collar: Delicate, traditional.
• Spread collar: Best worn outside jacket for splash of style.
• Button-down collar: Man-inspired, down-to-business, sporty.
• Collarless: Creative, independent.
Color.
Cream = Sophisticated, feminine, approachable.
White = Crisp, classic, down-to-business; wardrobe basic.
Black = Sharp, powerful, assertive.
Monochromatic = Clean, contemporary, elegant.
Fabric: Those with stretch add comfort.
• Cotton: Clean, crisp.
• Silk: Formal, conservative, dressy.
• Jersey: Easy upkeep, comfortable.

SHOP SMART: KNIT TOPS
Knits can introduce color and texture, and when worn as a sweater set provide a feminine alternative to a suit jacket. The lighter the weight the more sophisticated the knit, but beware of sheerness, which is never right in the workplace.
Quality is determined by how pure the yarn is and how tighter the knit, the higher the gauge. A one-ply sweater will be a lighter weight, but tighter-knit than a two-ply sweater. An eight-ply knit is very heavy and loosely knit, and more sporty than a one- or two-ply knit. The lighter the weight, the more likely a knit is to shrink, so dry-clean only. Lighter shades take less dye so softer in feel than draker colors, which use stronger dye.
Fit: Should be fitted, but not tight; too baggy can look sloppy.
• Everything about a turtleneck depends on its fit. Anything oversized or baggy is too casual for the office.
Texture:
• One-ply cashmere is light and more versatile than thicker plies.
• A flat knit is dressier and more versatile than a ribbed one. Worn under a suit jacket, however, the ribbed knit creates a tailored, sporty look.
Fabrics: A top quality merino wool or cotton knit is superior to a poor quality cashmere, which will easily pill and droop.
Color: A sweater is a perfect way to add a dash of color to a neutral suit, whether the season’s trendy shade or one that has always suited you.
Smart Options:
Twinset = Classic, feminine.
The black turtleneck = Edgy, urban. Has attitude.
V-neck = Preppy, casual.

SHOP SMART: SKIRTS
A straight, black, knee-length skirt in lightweight wool a clean waist-no belt loops-is acceptable in even the most conservative settings. It is slimming, can easily mix with other wardrobe items, and can dress up or down.
Fit:
• A slender heel keeps a knee-length skirt from looking overly sensible .
• A fuller skirt looks best with a fitted top and flatters most body types .
• Straight = To the point, classic, smart.
• A-line = Sensible, friendly.
• Bias-cut = Dressy, sexy.
• Pleated = Youthful, flirty.
Fabric: Should not be heavy or stiff but have a soft drape.
• Lightweight wool: Seasonless, versatile, can be paired with any other teture.
• Jersey: Lightweight stretch fabric best for spring, summer, and early fall.
• Cotton : Ideal for spring, summer, and early fall.
• Silk: A more dressed-up look, appropriate for spring and fall.
• Knit: least versatile option . Both light and heavier weaves are acceptable. Best to purchase with a matching top.

SHOP SMART: PANTS
Fit: Use a three-way mirror. If you have a panty line, invest in a thong. Try on panty with the shoes you plan to wear with them to ensure they break softly no top of your shoes. If you are short, avoid visually. Avoid pants that tug against tummy or things-try a cut with pleats, a fuller leg, or fabric that drapes. If a waistband is casing waist, avoid belts, or wear with tops that are just loose enough to camouflage. Pockets should not pull. Tailors can remove troublesome or visible pockets. Fabric should drape smoothly over the hips to the floor, without pulling or bagging. A fabric that has stretch can make pants more comfortable, fit the body bet

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Yours Clothes

Are you tired of seeing your clothes piled up on the bedroom chair? Do you wonder why your garments require ironing every time you put them on? Better yet, have you ever stretched out your favorite sweater by hanging it? If so, it's high time for you to learn how to fold and hang your clothes -- the right way.Properly storing your threads will keep them looking their best and extend their "shelf life," and allow you to maximize your closet space. The first step is determining which items in your wardrobe should be hung and which should be folded.

What you should fold
# Fold your sweaters (especially the heavier ones), T-shirts and underwear.
# Knitwear: If hung, knitted garments will likely stretch eventually.
# Garments made from stretchy fabrics such as spandex and nylon, to make sure they maintain their original shape.
# Relatively fine or delicate articles of clothing.

Folding tips
Everyone has their own secret technique when it comes to folding shirts, but in the end, it doesn't matter what a T-shirt or sweater looks like once it's sitting in a drawer. The technique you use to fold your garments isn't so important. Some prefer to fold their sweaters in half before folding the sleeves in; others prefer to start by folding the sleeves and then folding the sweater in half. Either way doesn't make much of a difference. What is important is that your garment must be flat and wrinkle-free before you start folding it, and the fabric must remain nicely spread out throughout the folding process. By doing so, you'll keep your garments free of creases and will therefore get to skip out on ironing before wearing them. Where shape is concerned, some prefer to fold their garments in a perfect square while others prefer a rectangular shape. Just keep in mind that a rectangular fold will help you maximize deeper storage spaces while a square fold is more practical for spaces with minimal depth.extra folding tips. Mix it up. Once in a while, try to alternate the way you fold your garments in order to prevent creases from setting in permanently. Make smaller piles. Avoid piling up too many sweaters or T-shirts in order to reduce the strain on those at the bottom of the pile. The extra weight might emphasize the creases in the garments and might even cause them to set in permanently. Use tissue. If you're a perfectionist, then you might want to place a thin layer of white tissue between folds to help prevent creasing. Because this technique is rather time-consuming and costly, it's usually limited to retail stores. Stay organized. Always try to keep your closet neatly organized. Separate your Ts from your long-sleeve knits, and your heavyweight sweaters from your lighter ones. It will make choosing what to wear for that hot date that much easier.


what you should hang
# Pants, with the exception of pajamas, track pants and sweat pants.
# Suits and items like button-down shirts, blazers and overcoats.

Hanging tips
When hanging your garments, make sure that they are evenly spaced out and easily accessible. They should drape naturally rather than be bunched up together; this will prevent them from creasing and allow the air to circulate for proper ventilation.

Shirts
When hanging a shirt, make sure it's completely buttoned up in order to keep the collar in place and prevent the neckline from creasing, and in some cases, getting distorted. (In the instance where a shirt doesn't button up all the way to the top, you can always use a safety pin to hold the collar in place.) For heavier shirts, consider crossing the sleeves around and over the hanger to prevent the sleeves from stretching.
Pants
Always remember to remove your belt from your slacks before hanging them; this will prevent the waistline from distorting. Next, fold your slacks along the pants' natural creases, so that both legs of the slacks lie flat against one another (parallel); make sure any pleats are folded down. You can use a hanger with clamps or slide the slacks onto a trouser rod or regular hanger. Note: Hangers with clamps or grip clips will make your life easier and help you maximize your closet space. If you use regular hangers instead, you might want to consider those with non-slip rubber to prevent the slacks from slipping off.

Choosing the best hangers
Plastic tubular hangers are known to offer minimal support and should be used for lighter items such as button-down shirts. Padded, shaped and traditional suit hangers are best for jackets, suits, thin shirts (i.e. linen), and tailored garments. The bigger the hanger, the more support your clothes receive, thereby helping to prevent unsightly creases. Wardrobe valets are also great for hanging suits, but they are rather expensive and will take up a lot of wardrobe space. Try to avoid wire hangers altogether -- you know, those you get from your local dry cleaner. When used to hang pants, they can create a crease right at your pants' thigh level. They can also rust and may eventually stain your clothing. You can also find various types of practical hangers made especially for hanging belts and ties.

More storing tips...
Empty your pockets. Remember to remove everything from your pockets, as some bulky items could distort a garment's shape. Air out your garments. Before hanging or folding your clothes, make sure they are completely dry to prevent mildew from building up. As well, if you were hanging out in a smoky club, it's a good idea to let your clothes air out before storing them away (no one wants a smoke-infested closet). Do it right away. You should also get into the habit of hanging and folding your clothes as soon as you get undressed, unless they need to be aired out (see above). Don't hesitate to ask. Finally, if you don't know how to store a new garment, simply ask the salesperson for advice

We remain with regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

General History Of Detachable Collars On Custom Made Business And Formal Shirts

You may remember the television commercial of old that shows a women yelling - "ring around the collar" - in which she uses a detergent to wash out the grime from her husband´s shirt and collar.

Ring around the collar isn´t simply a Madison Avenue executive´s clever ploy to sell washing detergent. It´s a centuries old problem and more than 150 years ago a Troy women set out to do something about it. However, she had not planned on creating a whole new industry.

Hannah Lord was the daughter of William A. Lord, a Revolutionary War officer and author of Lord´s Military Tactics. She married Orlando Montague, a shoe maker (or blacksmith), on August 14, 1817, and both settled in Troy originally on Second Street.

Mrs. Montague, tired of washing her husband´s shirts because only the collars were dirty decided one day to snip off a collar, wash it, and sew it back on. Mr. Montague, it´s written, agreed to the experiment, and in 1827, the first detachable collar was made at their home at 139 Third Street.

Notice of the event spread through the city and the Rev. Ebenezer Brown took notice. Brown, who was formerly a Methodist Minister, then the owner of a small shop at 285 River Street, was asked several times for the new product that was buzzing around the streets of the city.

Brown saw the need and rushed to fill it. His wife and daughter began cutting, stitching, and laundering the first detachable collars, consisting of 2 ply material, which had to be taped and tied around the neck. These early collars were called "string collars" and cost 25 cents a piece, of two dollars per dozen. Brown would sell and deliver the collars door to door.

His popularity forced him to set up a workshop in the back of his store where he hired several women to do the job, and also outsourced the work. Payment for their labor was in the form of "trade" in his store, and set by his own price. This may have been the first "sweat shop." Brown eventually moved to New York City in 1834.

Orlando Montague, the first person to wear a detachable collar, soon began his own collar factory with business partner Austin Granger in 1834. The Montague & Granger collar factory began at 222 River Street. Besides improving on the string collar, they developed the "Bishop" collar, an upright modification of the turn down collar. Besides collars, they manufactured "dickeys" (detached shirt bosoms), and separate cuffs.


Detachable collars had the problem of leaving gaps between the shirt and collar and this led to the invention of the use of buttons to snap the collars in place. This also led to the development of several new designs of collars.

The original reason that Mrs. Montaque created the detachable collar was to clean it separately from the shirt. With the increase production of collars came the need to wash the thousands of collars being produced. In 1835, Independence Starks, entered the collar making business, and also created the first Troy Laundry at 66 North Second Street (Fifth Avenue today) where he washed not only his own collars but those of competitors as well. Many years later the laundry industry would spark the creation of the first female union in the country.

For the next 50 years many inventions were developed to aid the collar, cuff, and shirt industry and Troy production boomed. By the late 1880´s, detachable collars were being manufactured around the nation.

By the early 20th century, 15,000 people worked in the collar industry in Troy and more than 85% were native born women. Ninety out of every 100 collars worn in America were made here and Troy became world famous as the "Collar City."

In 1901, there were 26 collar and cuff makers and 38 laundries in the city. Wearing a detached white collar gave rise to a new working social class, the "white collar" worker who differentiated themselves from the no or "blue" collar factory worker.

By 1962, only six companies were still making collars and cuffs in Troy and by the 1970´s most had gone out of business or moved South.

Marvin Neitzel Corp, a firm that currently manufacturers nurses uniforms, is the last existing firm which has collar roots. Marvin Neitzel Corporation goes back to 1886 when E. W. Marvin joined the collar firm Gunnison & Son, making it Gunnison & Marvin, later incorporating in 1908 as E. W. Marvin Company. Raymond P. Neitzel joined the firm in 1917 to develop a full line of hospital products and the firm became Marvin Neitzel Corporation in 1931. Marvin Neitzel Corp is the last company to make collars in Troy, ceasing production only a few years ago.

We remain with best regards,
your E-tailors at www.mycustomtailor.com

Custom Shirting

Besides the individualization of its styling, the advantages of the custom-made dress shirt over one that is ready-to-wear can be found in its precise fit as well as the superior quality and taste of its fabrics. The most visible and important component of the dress shirt is its collar, and the bespoke process allows for one that is designed to best present the wearer’s face. The fit of the dress shirt’s cuff to the wearer’s hand, its second most noticeable detail, is another area where the custom route is decidedly the higher of the two roads.
In choosing a shirt maker, you must inquire about what process he will use to produce your shirt. The maker should begin by creating an individual pattern from which he makes a sample shirt. having been worn and washed several times at home, the shirt should be examined on your body for final approval or further altering. After those washings, the collar should fit comfortably while still allowing for some shrinkage. The shirtsleeve should still be long enough to show ฝ” of cuff from under the jacket sleeve and also have enough length to offset further shrinkage.
If cut from a stock pattern rather than an individual pattern, the shirt is not custom-made. In some cases, if you are a standard fit, the shirt might require little adjustment, but it would be inaccurate to call it bespoke. Shirts deserving to be called custom-made cost $150 and up and should be made from thirty-six-inch-width, 100 percent cotton, two-ply cloth. This is easy enough to determine. Ask the salesman to show you a bolt of the fabric and ask him to measure its width. Since fabric woven in this old-world width is always two-ply, this is a fail-safe checkpoint. Thirty-six-inch narrow-width shirting fabrics are made on Europe’s older, slower looms, which produce a luxurious cloth of richer colors and hand than the fabric will feel even silkier with wear. As long as the shirt’s fabric is woven in either Switzerland or Italy, you are assured of a finished product of deluxe caliber.
To confirm a shirt’s pedigree, you must establish the shirt’s level of sewing artistry and manufacturing skill. The entire shirt, including its side seams, should be sewn with a single needle. This construction allows for the smallest stitches, the narrowest seam, and the most meticulous finishing. The shirt’s side seam should be precisely narrow and the individual stitches on its collar so small as to be almost invisible. The collar so small as to be almost invisible. The collar and cuff lining should be cotton (not fused) and from Europe. Switzerland makes the best. The yoke on the back of a custom shirt should be made of two separate pieces joined in the center and the button should be genuine mother-of-pearl and attached by hand. If there is a monogram, it too should be hand-embroidered as opposed to machine-made.

If the answers to these areas of investigation are satisfactory, you can be assured of receiving a top-quality product and should be prepared to pay $150 to $300, depending on the country where it is bought and any extras and collars. Choose to have the shirt’s excess fabric set aside rather than made into a finished collar. If you lost or put on weight, it’s better to have fabric on hand. The costs can also vary according to the quality of two-ply cotton fabric used, which can range from 100s up to the very expensive, silk like 220s.
Of course, all thing being equal, the cost of the bespoke dress shirt ultimately rests on the genius of its pattern and the nuances of its fit. However, there are some aspects of shirt making that do separate the masters from the top makers. These details include special gussets to reinforce the shirt’s side seams where they meet at the hem bottom, pattern matching on the back yoke to the sleeve, hand-sewn buttonholes (found only in Europe), horizontal sleeve placket buttonholes, and extra-thick mother-of-pearl buttons.
All of the above quality the product as custom-made. Below this, there are a variety of methods of individualized shirt making that are often called custom-made. Obviously, this term stands for a specific process of creating a particular shirt with an attendant quality of shirting fabric and shirt making. Make-to-order, individually cut, and made-to-measure are all terms that indicate something less than custom-made, and that is why they need to be understood if one is to compare apples with apples. If you pay less than $150 for a dress shirt and it is represented as being comparable to the top-of-the-heap bespoke ones, something is amiss. That is not to say that a custom-made shirt will always look better than a less expensive garment. A well-designed ready-to-wear shirt can look more flattering than a bespoke one with a poorly designed collar. As with all wearing apparel, design, not quality, is the ultimate arbiter of stylish

We remain with best regards,
your E-tailors at www.mycustomtailor.com

Update About Price Revision In The Coming Week

Dear Patrons and Valued friends,

This is a friendly reminder that our pricing is due for a price revision in the coming week.
This is the first price revision since the last two years and addresses the current cost realities.
We will be looking at pricing in all our mens and womens shirt categories through out all the collections over the coming week.
With the increase in the level of workmanship that we have instigated in the last few months and with the additional new features that have constantly been added to our products to increase the value of our custom clothing, we believe the coming cost revisions will effectively help us maintain and infact continue to enhance the quality of our products and services over the coming years.

Please note that any order placed prior to the upcoming price revision will be fulfilled at the current price.
The revisions will also affect the pricing of our wardrobe specials/special offers.
An order can be placed even if measurements have still not been submitted. Fabrics will be booked according to the order and the lower prices will be honored even if the measurements are submitted after the price revision.
We do hope this brief note is of help and we sincerely Thank you for your continued patronage.
With warm regards,
we remain,
your suit makers
at
www.mycustomtailor.com